Trnavská Viecha.

Having spent a very pleasant evening sipping wine at ‘Trnavská viecha’, it seems only decent to give a glowing write-up of this petite but perfectly proportioned little wine bar.

Part of the experience of visiting this place is the joy of getting there.

Ambling past the Basilica of St. Nicholas and down quaint cobbled streets. It feels like you are really going somewhere. And you are. Set against the backdrop of the old stone walls enveloping Trnava’s town, you are transported anywhere your imagination takes you — for me, it is medieval Italy.

Inside, people lean into each other, talking in hushed tones, almost as if speaking too loudly might break the divine magic spell cast on the environment. It is a place to go with a small group; it is not made for a rowdy crowd. It is unexpected, but the floor is transparent glass enncasing the ancient foundations of the city wall. You find yourself thinking of the past and all that must have happened on these stones. And, if the conversation runs dry, it is an excellent talking point.

However, this evening, the conversation was flowing almost as well as the wine. The menu is extensive, and it has a lot on offer for such a diminutive venue. There are the old standards like Frankova Modras (a Slovak staple) and Pinot Noirs. But, there are also some quirky surprises for those looking to venture a little out of their comfort zone. Oranžový Vlk (translated as “Orange Wolf”) is an intriguing option — created from white grapes, it ferments spontaneously (apparently, I had to Google it!) and is entirely organic and doesn’t have any chemicals to help it along. I like its style! I’ve tried it before, and it definitely has a, shall we say… unique flavour but, after the surprise of the first sip, the second becomes more palatable. Until you have accidentally finished the glass and can’t quite decide whether you like it or not.

As tempting as wolf’s blood might have been, this evening, I was in the mood for a red variety (predictably). I stuck with my usual favourite, Dunaj (a pet name for the Danube river apparently — Thanks again, Google!). It’s dry, rich, smooth, with a deep chocolate taste at the end. In a nutshell, it’s my new found soulmate, and I’m sticking with it. And at 4.50 euro for 2 dcl, it’s not a bad price either. My companions opted for Čiernych Ríbezlí (Blackcurrant Wine). It’s essentially adult Ribena; it’ll take you back to childhood birthday parties in a sip, but it is lethal. It is the Pringles of vino. Entirely too drinkable for any wine that strong (14%). And you know, once you pop…

Customer service in Slovakia is often more miss than hit, but it really depends on the establishment. Here, the staff are friendly and are happy to interact with customers. Giving recommendations and in turn the distinct impression that they care about your evening. A few of the staff also speak English well. And, much to my delight, wine — and I am assuming all alcoholic beverages — come with a free jug of water without you having to ask. It was kept full all night, also without having to ask. Impressive! I know, I know, it’s the small things — but details like this go a long way in creating a pleasant experience.

In addition to the wine, there is a thoughtful array of accompaniments that pair delightfully. Olives, cheese, prosciutto, sun-dried tomatoes, almonds… That kind of thing. You can order them individually, priced between 2.50 and 5 euros, or you can opt for a platter of meat or cheese or both, which cost between 10 and 15 euros.

Our platter appeared just as the evening was settling in, and the fairy lights adorning the walls had begun to twinkle. Charmingly arranged on a wooden board, the selection looked appealing and varied. Although I wasn’t particularly hungry, the olives were fresh and delicious; green, black, and some filled with a mystery cheese. Feta-esque but not quite.

The platter also featured a peppercorn Gouda, an array of sliced meats, and seedless (the best kind) grapes.

After a few hours of talking and laughing and sharing, the final bill came in at around 65 euros, which for a table of four, was extremely reasonable.

If you ever happen to find yourself in Trnava, Slovakia with a few evening hours to spare, take a meander to the place that will take you anywhere. It has magic in its walls.

For reservations, you can connect with them through their website.